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While this is a common misunderstanding, many train buffs will get quite angry if you mix up the two. Gauge is the distance between the rails on a track, not size.

First for the facts about model train scales. It is measured like this.

First thing you will notice when looking at a model train scales is a letter. Here are the most common lettering system, in order from largest to smallest.

While there are some others that can be larger or smaller, they are hard to find and some smaller sizes are difficult to work with, especially if you have large hands, or have arthritis. HO is probably the easiest to work with, find parts and accessories easily, and is one of the most common train scales.

In order from largest is G scale. These trains are 1:24, meaning they are only one twenty-fourth the size of a real train.

While you may think of these trains as the ones you may have seen circling a tree at Christmas time, they are larger than that. You would most often find this scale in a outside setting, intermingled in a garden or landscaping scene.

They are made to be rugged and durable and will take the stress of weather fairly well. The size commonly associated with Christmas trains are the ‘O’ model train scales, which are 1:48, meaning that they are 1 48th the size of a real train.

You mostly see these in the hands of smaller children, because of their size, they are easily handled by small ones. You will probably not see many of these train layouts indoors, because of the space they use.

HO is as mentioned earlier, the most common used and easily found. HO scale is 1:87, which is small enough to handle well, performs the best and is large enough to show case very well.

You will see these model train scales in most layouts, because of the accessibility of parts and miniatures that are available. This train size is ideal for the beginner, because it has many basic sets, and can be expanded as the user becomes more experienced.

The next two are N, which stands for nine, which is the space between the tracks for this model, 9mm. This scale is 1:160, and is small enough to display in a bedroom, or a garage setting.

Z scale is the smallest, 1:220, and a whole basic layout for this size can fit on a office or home desk top. However, this size is not advised for children of people with vision problems, etc. because it’s so small.

Again gauge is the measured distance between the track, and there are many different gauges. Usually when you buy a set, you really don’t have to worry about this, since the train and tracks always match.

When you are buying extra track, then you need to know what the gauge is, so you won’t buy tracks that are too wide or narrow to match with the ones you have. With this information about model train scales, it should help you figure out which model trains are going to be right for you.

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Removed or Overhead Lighting – These lights are what you have in your room to showcase your model railroad.  These lighting sources, sometimes referred to as track lighting, should showcase the project in its entirety. One idea is the inclusion of strip lighting with adjustable heads that allow you to shine the light on any particular area.  Consider adding a dimmer switch to the room’s overhead lighting too.  It’s a great way to define the light – if you’re working with small pieces from Bachmann trains, the brighter light will reduce eye strain or if you’re showing off your masterpiece, by dimming the lights, you can change the effect of your presentation.

Why Would I Even Want to Modify the Lighting? There are a few reasons for using adjustable lighting sources:
•    To recreate dawn or dusk scenes – consider using low watt pink or blue bulbs.  They can be found in hobby shops or hardware stores.  Alternatively, electroluminescent cable lighting can be used with the same effect.  This is ideal for placement behind scenery with little height since the cable is easily hidden out of sight.
•    To light billboards, streetlights and even railroad crossing lights
•    Small headlights for automobiles

It’s all about creativity.  You’re limited only by your imagination.  Few things allow us to “write our own rules”, but when it comes to designing Bachmann trains or any model railroad, you, as its owner, are allowed complete creative liberty.  Keep in mind too that nothing’s permanent.  If one method doesn’t create the desired effect, it’s easily changed or moved around.  Too many times, we get tunnel vision and forget the countless other ways to recreate a scene or design a layout for our model railroad.

Lighting that Varies with Your Train’s Speed – Sometimes you may notice your locomotive’s light varies depending on the speed of its motion.  If you’ve run into this, consider incorporating diodes or resistors to ensure its light is consistent.  Although many find a way to insert batteries, keep in mind it can be bulky and awkward trying to fit it into the allocated space. Remember to wear safety goggles and use caution when working with electricity.  And finally, don’t forget to use your creativity.

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Steam locomotives have a distinguishing, main attribute: steam. Known by the familiar whistling as steam blows, the original “Choo-Choo” train is undeniably recognizable. Even though diesel trains do not have this feature, their tenders are sleek and modern in design. Electric steam locomotive models come equipped with an operating smokestack and tend to be replicas of days gone by, back around the 18th century. Diesels are mainly modeled after original trains which ran about 100 years later around the early 19th century and later.

Made of brass and other sturdy metals, steam locomotives are strong, weighty and durable. Additionally, many of the metal parts used in construction are applied separately – a common feature found in Bachmann locomotives. This demonstrates the care and due diligence given to each manufactured part. Diesels models can be found made of heavy weight plastic and other materials.

If you want a diesel train, look for trains with momentum and track stability features. Characteristically, the diesel trains have “all-wheel” drive. Bachmann trains and other brands may list “8-wheel pickup and 8-wheel drive” which are compatible to the all-wheel drive feature. This adds to a train’s longevity and smooth operation, which is desirable for any diesel. Also, look for models with dual, precision-balanced flywheels. These elements help keep the train running stably on the track making it less likely to jam as rolls over unnoticed debris.

By contrast, steam locomotives are known by the number of axles stated in the title or somewhere in their product description. For example, “4-8-4″ would be interpreted as a model featuring two axles in the front and rear; and 4 drive axles. Since these types of trains are typically substantial in weight, they need compatible axles which are strong enough to stabilize their frame.

Some collectors note clearer, more defined hand painted details on most steam engine models. This in part is due to the fact that brass takes well to applied graphics. Designs on shiny metal alloys tend to be more visible from a distance as well as visually engaging close up.

Overall, steam engines are priced ranging from $75 on up. It is not uncommon to find mid-to-higher priced models in the $250 range and higher. This is due to a combination of factors including the popularity of the original during its heyday on which the replica is modeled after. You will also pay more for the combination of axles. For instance, expect to pay around $75 or more for a steam engine from Bachmann locomotives with a defined “0-6-0″ type. This means “0″ front and “0″ rear; however, the 6 drive axles make up for the missing fronts and rears.

While most steam locomotives cost more than their diesel counterparts, Bachman trains do not. Prices depend on which features are included. Expect to pay significantly higher prices for added perks such as digital control for speed, lighting and directional operations, domes, additional box cars, caboose and other benefits.

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Product Description
More than 4,000 different Athearn models–covering 50 years of production–are cataloged and described in this guide. 500+ photos, 80 in color…. More >>

Standard Guide to Athearn Model Trains

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Scale refers to the actual size of the railroad engine, cars, and accessories. They can be little enough to easily fit on an office desk top, or large enough for a garden railway. Scale is also referred to in letter form. For instance, ‘G’ scale train models are 1:24 scale, which means it’s just 1/24th the size of an actual train.

These are frequently found with train hobbyists who lay out their model trains in a back yard setting, such as interwoven throughout gardens, and other landscaping. The ‘Z’ scale is a mere 1:220, meaning it’s two-hundred and twenty times smaller than an actual railroad. As mentioned previously, this size is perfect for a desk top lay out, but it’s so little in size that they are tricky to work with, and aren’t in wide use.

The next part regarding model railroads is gauge. Although this is frequently confused with scale by many beginners, it is NOT the same as scale, and mixing up the two will certainly irritate experienced railroad hobbyists. What gauge measures is the distance between the train track rails. For instance, if you have a nine gauge railroad track, this means that there is 9 millimeters of space between the inside of the rails. In this case, the larger the gauge, the larger the space.

Now despite the fact that this may seem a little confusing, do not worry. HO scale is 1:87, and is ideal for lots of new beginners, as well as many other enthusiasts. it is little enough to fit well with lots of various layouts, yet big enough for the average individual to handle, and they show well. This is the most commonly used scale in the model railroad world not only because of its versatility, but also because parts and accessories are easy to obtain.

This brings us to layouts and accessories. Having model railroads would be very boring if all it entailed was a train engine moving along a track. That’s why a model train can include numerous various train cars, passenger cars, hoppers, and tank containers, just to name a few. Then there are all the layout accessories, trestles, miniature people and vehicles, as well as buildings and scenery.

The potential is really only limited to your imagination. You can even construct your own landscaping ideas, with artificial plants torn apart for trees, shrubs, and other plants. You could even use old cleaned out tin cans, painted, for things such as grain silos, or oil refinery tanks.

There are a lot of basic sets a beginner can buy, with all things to start your hobby. You can find many of these on websites, or you could also start at your local hobby shop. A retailer can not only offer a lot of various ideas, but can also answer lots of if not all of your questions. Hopefully you will want to know more information about model railroads, and you can find numerous example layouts online for creative ideas.

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The materials you will use include the following:
1 4 x 8 sheet of plywood (a good size for HO scale model trains; use 5/8 inch B-C grade plywood)
3 1×4 x8’ (for edge supports)
4 1×4 x8’ ripped into 1×2 stock (for 5 joists, plus bracing)
1 1×4 x10’ ripped into 1×2 stock (for bracing between legs)
1 2×4 x8’ ripped into 2×2 stock (this is for the table legs and is enough for a max height of 48 in)
1 box (100) 1-3/4” dry wall screws (will use 72 of these)
8 1/4×3” carriage bolts (for bolting on the table legs)
8 ¼” washers (for table legs)
8 ¼-20 nuts (for table legs)
1 pint yellow carpenter’s glue (not white, use yellow since it is waterproof)

The tools you will use include the following:
2 saw horses (optional)
1 saw (Almost anything will work – a saber saw or “Skil” saw or table saw or hand cross-cut saw. If buying a first saw, a saber saw will probably be most useful in future model railroad endeavors.)
1 3/8” reversible electric drill
1 bit to fit drywall screws
1 5/16” drill bit (for carriage bolts)
1 1/8” drill bit for pilot holes
1 adjustable crescent wrench or open or closed end wrench to fit nuts
1 carpenter’s square

You’ll start with the tabletop, a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood. This is a good size for HO scale model trains, because it allows space for a track layout a bit more interesting than a mere oval or circle. You only need one good side on the plywood, and while that does need to be fairly smooth, it doesn’t have to be grade-A perfect, since you’ll be covering it up with track, accessories, scenery and other details. So go with the B grade for the good side, it’s less expensive than A.

This large sheet of plywood is rather floppy on its own, so it needs support to stiffen it before you set up a model railroad on it. The first step is a frame around the outer edge. Build the frame first, and then screw the plywood to it. Take two 8 foot lengths of 1×4 and two 3’ 10-1/2” lengths. You will want to screw and glue them together, because nails tend to work themselves loose with the vibrations of the model railroad and the occasional jostling of the table.

Prepare the end of an 8’ side piece by drilling two pilot holes where screws will go into the shorter end pieces. Don’t make the holes too big. They should be just large enough to pass each screw. Prepare the end of one of the 3’ 10-1/2” end pieces by rubbing yellow carpenter’s glue into the end grain until it’s fairly well-saturated. Then run an additional bead of glue along it. Press onto end of 8’ piece and screw together using pilot holes. Repeat at each of the four corners. Allow to dry.

Now, take the sheet of plywood and screw it onto the frame, good side up (B side up, C side should be touching the frame). Do not glue the plywood to the frame, as you may need to remove it from the frame later to build a lake or adjust the levels of your track.
You can drill this together in two ways; you can use a “pilot drill” and No 8 x 1-3/4 in flathead wood screws. Or you can use drywall screws with regular drill and drywall screw bit. With drywall screws, they are self-tapping, meaning you will not need to predrill any holes except if you are at the end of a piece of lumber and trying to avoid splitting.

Now the plywood has been stiffened on the edges and you are ready to add joists to firm up the middle. Turn the apparatus over so it is frame-side up. Take five 1 x2’s the same length as the short end pieces (3’ 10-1/2”) and screw them at intervals to the side pieces of the frame in such a way that they bear up against the plywood. Do not screw them to the plywood tabletop.

Now you are ready for the legs and bracing. You need to decide on the height you want your layout to be, whatever seems appropriate for HO scale model trains. For ease of viewing those lifelike details on the model railroad, it’s common to make the display height fairly tall, just below eye level. I’ve seen recommendations ranging from 42 to 56 inches. (For comparison, most writing desks or dining tables are around 28 to 31 inches.) If your viewing audience includes children, consider a lower height, such as 30 inches. Also consider ease of working on the center part of the scenery and track.

Cut four 2 x 2’s to your chosen height. Contrary to what you might think, the legs should not be mounted at the corners of the plywood. You will have a much sturdier table with less flex in the middle if you mount the legs 20% inward on each end. For an 8 foot long table, this means mounting the legs 19” from each end, measured along the long side.

Turn the table upside down (frame side up). Drill one 5/16” hole all the way through the side piece of the frame and into a leg. Leg should be flush with the plywood, and hole should be about ¾ to 1” up from the plywood. Stick a carriage bolt through from the frame side. Using fingers, tighten down a washer and nut onto the inside of the leg where the carriage bolt is sticking out. Now check that the leg is at right angles, using a carpenter’s square and carefully drill a second hole to keep it there.

The second hole should be ¾ to 1” from the other edge of the frame (the edge temporarily facing up) and you will add another bolt-washer-nut. Now use a wrench to tighten both nuts down solidly. Repeat the process for the other three legs. You really want to be sure to use the square to measure in both plains that all four legs are perpendicular.

Now you could stop here, but even so the table would be a bit wobbly, and you don’t want that when you are setting up your model railroad. For maximum stability, you will need to install additional bracing. At each of the shorter ends, use “X” bracing. Take two 1 x 2’s and fasten them as close to the floor as possible on one end and as close to the table as possible at the other (this makes four braces in all).

Then you will want to install double bracing on the long sides. Attach a 1 x 2 as close to the floor as possible and run it to the other end of the table. Attach another 1 x 2 as close to the floor as possible and attach it to a point towards the middle of the table (this makes eight braces in all). This bracing may seem unsightly, but it is worth it. You can hang cloth curtains from the edge of the finished table to hide it, if you like.

Finally, if your floor is not level and even, you can make the legs adjustable. Drill a 5/16” pilot hole into the bottom (the end) of each leg in the center. Hammer in a ¼” T-nut. Now thread on a ¾” bolt. This makes each leg independently adjustable to compensate for the unevenness in the floor.

Congratulations! The fine new bench-work for your model railroad is now complete! Turn the table over and you have a solid and sturdy platform on which to enjoy constructing your new layout for HO scale model trains.

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The definitive Lionel trains collectors guide is your one stop place for everything that you ever need to know about collecting the model trains. It covers everything from the trains to the parts and where you can look for repairs and special models of the trains. It showcases some of the most popular collections of Lionel trains including the HO model and the pre-war model trains.

You can find this guide online at www.lionelmanuals.com. This catalog includes over 2000 pages of rare and exciting collections of Lionel trains and has everything that you need to replace the parts on your current collections and find new trains and parts to start another collection. This helpful guide not only highlights all of the wonderful train sets and collector items; it also includes old vintage color catalogs from years ago of the trains. If you have always been looking for the one guide that will give you all of the information that you would ever need when it comes to collecting Lionel trains, you need to check out the web site and order your guide.

Whether you are new to the collecting of trains, or if you have been doing it for years, you will be amazed at the variety of collections and train sets that are included in this guide. Not only will you be able to look through all of the different train sets that are made and manufactured, you will also be able to find rare parts and replacements for your current collection that are hard to find anywhere else. No matter how many Lionel train sets you collect, or how many new trains you would like to get, this guide can help you find the perfect pieces to make your collection complete.

Lionel trains are a wonderful train set to collect, and the value of this guide is priceless to add to your collection. It has all of the information that you will ever need to know about the train sets.

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Even though it requires more work, there are several reasons for building your own wooden train structures.

First, many hobbyists get a great deal of pleasure from the task of building wooden train structures themselves. Hobbyists have even more fun with it by participating in achievement programs and contests. For anyone participating in contests or the achievement program (or even for your Master Builders Structures Certificate) there are various guidelines that must be followed.

Second, hobbyists might not be able to get what they want from pre-packaged kits, leaving them with little choice but to build it themselves.

After making the decision to build custom wooden structures, it is time to get started. The first step is to gather the tools you will need. If you can put a craftsman kit together, this task should be simple. Most of the tools you will probably already have in your possession, items such as a scale ruler, single edge razor blades, Xacto knife (or similar), and a smallish square. Those are the absolute basics, though in the interests of making life easy for yourself it would also be a good idea to go out and invest in such items as a miter box, saw, a steel plate (preferably with a square grid) small biggies filled with side weights (for the purposes of having adjustable weights), aluminum side rails with extra magnets, little clamps, a chopper, a sander and smaller items such as pins, pencils, scissors and glass plates.

After getting the tools, the next step is to draw up (to scale) a plan for the structure. Once you have that, the wood raw materials need to be gathered. Stripwood is a good choice. Commercially available siding is acceptable as a cover.

Prior to starting the assembly comes staining or treating the wood if desired. Variations in the wood can give structures a more realistic appearance. If you want these variations, it will need to be pre-stained prior to assembly.

The final step is assembling the structure. If you want to decorate and see the interior (which is a must if the building will be in the foreground), you must be sure to make the roof removable (cover trusses with boards, then shingle; rafting and cross bracing are recommended to give it both stability and strength). Nail-holes are absolutely essential for clapboard siding. This can be achieved with straight pins for smaller structures or larger pins requiring a pounce wheel. All subassemblies should be assembled prior to attempting to connect them to the building (if you are planning to paint the building, don’t put the subassemblies on until this is done). Use clear plastic or glass for windows.

Once the wooden train structures are completed, they are sure to take your train set to the next level. They will last a lifetime and will work great with Lionel trains or any other brand you select.

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It’s the passion and desire for perfection that draws people to building and adding their own wood structures versus incorporating a pre-fabricated kit. There’s a sense of pride in knowing the tiniest details were carefully and painstakingly created by the owner. Whether you’re a seasoned train collector or are just discovering this satisfying pastime, keep reading for a few tips for successfully adding wood structures for your metal or wooden train.

Your first task is to define the project. In your mind, what does the finished project look like? Like the idea of tunnels for your train to travel through? Making your scenery interactive with the working train isn’t as difficult as you might think. You want it to blend seamlessly with the train and the tracks. Other ideas include greenery, mountains and of course, buildings.
Two options to consider include pre-fabricated kits that allow you to build your wooden structures with relative ease using the pre-cut pieces, or as many prefer, you can tackle the project “from scratch”. This method is a bit more time-consuming, but the pride of having finished a project such as this is indescribable.  

If you are considering the “from scratch” option, here are a few basic tools and materials that will help you get started:
•    Crafting knife – also referred to as a hobby knife
•    Exacto knife and blades – we suggest varying angles and curves for your blades which can be found in any hobby or craft store
•    Pencils with erasers
•    Ruler or a traditional tee square
•    Carpenter’s glue
•    Wood strips
•    Durable cardboard or press board to create templates

Remember, if you decide to build your wood structures, you’ll need to first create templates from which to cut the sheets of wood from. Using your template, carefully trace it onto your strip wood. Don’t forget windows and doors if they’re part of your plan. From there, you’ll be able to cut your wood verbatim to your template. One advantage of creating templates is the fact they’re re-useable. Using your wood or carpenter’s glue, secure the panels together to form your buildings. If you creating several buildings with the intent of using them as miniature homes, churches or other buildings, you’ll naturally want them to vary in height and width.

Once your glue has dried, tiny nails gently driven into the seams will serve as additional strength to the structures. Sandpaper smoothes out the rough edges and provides a better foundation for any paint or stains you intend to apply.

It should be noted many avid toy train collectors build their models with roof structures that can be removed to decorate the inner walls. It’s not uncommon to see houses with fireplaces drawn and chimneys extending from the wooden structures.  Again, this is your vision, your metal or wooden train and your project. Be as creative as you wish.

Your trains toys and wooden designs very well can become a part of your legacy as it’s passed down to children, grandchildren and great grandchildren.

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